Restaurant Review: Beating the heat at River North’s refreshing Tzuco
Now that Chicago is in the official ‘dog days’ of summer, our culinary tastes are turning to fresh, light fare, salads and fruity, thirst-quenching drinks after a long, hot summer’s day.
River North’s Tzuco raises my vision of a refreshing, light summer meal during summer’s warmest days. They offer upscale, regional Mexican cuisine “from the Imaginarium of Carlos Gaytán, the first Latin American who earned a Michelin Star,” according to their website.
At Tzuco, Chef Gaytán, who came to Chicago as a dishwasher and rose to compete in ‘Top Chef’ and earn a Michelin star, presents the best of Mexico, infused with French haute cuisine techniques.
“Americans don’t think of Mexican food as fine dining. In my restaurant (previously, Mexique), we got rid of beans, guacamole, and margaritas,” he told Hola in 2021. “Once you break with expectations, you can begin to suggest new experiences to the diner.”
That said, the Margarita is back on Tzuco’s menu. This one is indeed refreshing, with a mix of tequila, Cointreau liqueur, cucumber, elderflower, and lime juice. My favorite summer refresher, the Mexique Sangria, is a blend brandy, burgundy, hibiscus flower, citrus, and mint. Guacamole is also on the menu here, with creamy avocado, pico de gallo, lime juice, Huitzuco cheese, served with tortilla chips. For an additional $5, you can add Castacán (crispy pork belly).
Guytan’s starters include a Pescadilla, which pairs a stuffed squid ink tortilla with a fish fillet, served with tomato, onion, garlic, fresh thyme, and avocado salsa. Their Black Ceviche boasts tuna paired with smoked Japanese aguachile, squid ink, cucumber, red onion, cilantro, black avocado mousse, and a crispy purple tortilla. Roasted Beets are like none other; Amaranth-crusted baby red beets and pickled yellow beets, served with mole rosa, candied hibiscus flowers, and Robiola goat cheese.
Entrees are similarly imaginative. Cochinita Pibil is a Guerrero-style pork shank, with a black bean purée, pickled red onions, and habanero salsa, served with tortillas. Barbacoa is a traditional Lamb Neck Barbacoa, slow-cooked and wrapped in charred maguey leaf, served with mint-infused jocoque, smooth pinto bean puree, and sweet pickled vegetables. Chile Relleno is a summery mix of stuffed poblano pepper, ratatouille, roasted squash spaghetti, tomato fondue, and panela cheese. Soft Shell Crabs arecrusted, most unusually, in puffed rice, and servedwith jicama pistachio pesto and pickled grapes.
As we usually say here, save room for dessert! Guanábana Aguacate has a refreshing citrus tapioca, guanábana sorbet, and avocado foam. Maìz y Azafrán is a sweet cornbread, caramel popcorn, honey toffee, saffron ice cream, and cajeta ahumada. Arroz Con Leche has rice pudding, white chocolate, Rice Krispies, and pink peppercorn ice cream.
Google reviews were impressive:
“Bottom line: This restaurant has it all together. I can’t wait to come back. You can tell everything that you experience as a diner has been thought of.
The vibe of this restaurant hits you as soon as you walk in the door. From that point, you know you’re in for a treat.
The food was all spectacular. Octopus and Tlacoyo to start. Then goat shank with mole and cochinita pibil were explosions of flavor. The vegetables on the side were notable and those fresh tortillas were the perfect vehicle.
Our server was very knowledgeable and helped us find a nice bottle of wine to accompany.”
Tzuco is located at 720 N. State Street. They are open Monday-Thursday, 4pm-10pm, Friday and Saturday, 4pm-11pm, and Sunday, 4pm-9pm. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday, 10am-2pm. For reservations, call (312) 374-8995.
Alison Moran-Powers and Dean’s Team Chicago
